Sunday, August 22, 2010

Butterick 7245 (Dress)

I've always thought this pattern looked like it would make for a nice outfit that could be worn for many occasions, but I never got round to buying it until about two months ago, when I found it in a vintage size 14 in Historically Patterns' shop on Etsy. Here's the pattern envelope:

Seeing as I'm quite happy with the fit of size 14 patterns issued before 1956, I didn't make any alterations to the pattern except for shortening the skirt by about 2 inches. The dress does not have a slit or kick pleat, so I was a bit worried that it would be too restrictive, but it was fine even before I hemmed it. I did a lapped back zipper and I think it turned out okay. It adds a nice finish to the garment, so I'm happy to have learned that technique. Anywho, here's my interpretation of this pattern:

The fabric is a tomato red cotton twill, a fabric I've grown quite fond of. I'm very pleased with this dress and I really love the fit. It's a wee bit blousey in the back, but I think it would be difficult to put on if it was tighter. The cotton twill is very stiff and thick and it therefore has a cinching effect in itself, so the belt only functions as an accessory. I also noticed the dress looked it's best when I wore my pointiest bullet underneath (if you're curious as to how pointy it is, it's available here). Depending on your bust, you should probably keep that in mind if you opt to make this dress in a fabric of similar thickness and stiffness.
I've bought some classic plaid fabric to make the jacket from this pattern. I don't know when I'll get round to making it, though, but hopefully it'll be sometime during September :)

If you like this pattern, it's quite easy to find. There's links to several sellers on the pattern's Vintage Patterns Wikia page. The listings are for vintage sizes 16 (bust 34) and 18 (bust 36) and they're quite cheap too :)

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Hollywood 1341

I found this early 1940s pattern on eBay back in January:

Here's the front view:

And the back view:

You may recognise the printed cotton fabric from this dress. I simply adore the combination of light green and pink, not to mention floral fabrics, so I just had to buy several yards :)

This was the first time I worked with an unprinted pattern. I was a bit worried that the perforations would be confusing, but the instructions had a neat little layout explaining the functions of the perforations:

When I picked the pattern for the 'Poolside Pretties' category of the Summer Essentials Sew-Along, I initially thought that the mini sarong was a separate piece, however, it is attached to the bikini bottoms:

The bottoms provide a lot of control of the sarong and they actually have a much more flattering fit than I thought at first.

The alterations I made using this pattern were very minor. They are as follows:

Graded it up from a vintage size 12 to a vintage size 14.

Used snaps instead of buttons.

Did a pink top-stitch instead of applying the suggested rick rack trim.

Did not line the bikini top.

The outfit came together quite easily and I'm very happy with it. It is a very wearable set and I've worn it plenty since I finished it :)

Butterick 8149

I bought this pattern ages ago from Vintage Jubilee on Etsy:

I used a light-weight half panama weave with a citrus fruit print as well as some plain white cotton. Here's the front view:

And the back view (including awkward posture due to boyfriend cracking jokes):

This dress is one of my entries for the Summer Essentials Sew-Along. It was pretty straightforward to put together, but I did have to adjust the sizing; vintage size 14 Butterick patterns with a 32" inch bust fit my measurements very well without adjustments, but seeing as Butterick 8149 was made after Butterick changed the bust size of a size 14 pattern from 32" to 34", I ended up spending a lot of time fitting the bodice. I made a muslin of the bodice from the same white cotton used for the band, straps and bow. The citrus fabric is somewhat see-through, so I decided to use the bodice muslin as lining. The skirt isn't lined as I figured I'd wear a simple pencil half-slip with it.
Other than the bodice adjustment, I took about three inches off the skirt length.

Following Gertie's lapped side zipper tutorial, I did my very first lapped side zipper. Wonky stitches aside, I'm pretty happy with the results:

With regard to the Summer Essentials Sew-Along, I'm going to have to admit defeat. The description of the sew-along set the deadline as 'August-ish' and I think one week into August is as far as I'll push it. I had made a schedule for all five projects, but even when I'm not studying, I still don't have enough time. The halter top and pedal pushers will be finished later this month. The pajamas are still on my to-do list and will not be postponed indefinately, but I have not set a deadline for them yet. The 1940s bikini will, however, be revealed later today :)